Amidst his vineyards, Massimo Tosoni walks with purpose under the scorching sun, overseeing the expansive rows of greenery. In the backdrop, the historical town of Tarquinia perches atop a hill once dominated by the ancient Etruscans.
Pointing out towards the vineyards, he highlights the arid soil, resembling stone due to prolonged lack of moisture. This phenomenon, caused by the relentless sun, has drained the earth of vitality, hindering water reabsorption.
Italy’s vineyards, mirroring global trends, are confronting lengthier and hotter summers, unpredictable weather patterns, and diminishing water resources. These environmental shifts are compelling winemakers to reassess a fundamental aspect of their craft: terroir, the intricate blend of soil, sunlight, wind, rain, and human intervention that imparts each wine with its distinctive flavor and character.
Studies indicate that if global temperatures surge beyond 2 degrees Celsius by the end of the century, up to 90% of Italy’s low-lying and coastal wine regions — amounting to about one-third of the nation’s vineyard area — could become unsuitable for viticulture, with similar implications for vineyards worldwide.
Italy, a prominent player in the global wine market with a sector valued at $20.7 billion CAD and constituting 10% of the country’s agri-food economy, witnessed record-breaking exports of $12 billion CAD in 2024 before facing challenges such as drought in the south and severe weather conditions in the north, exacerbated by climate change.
In the northern Lazio region near Rome, which contributes approximately 3% of Italy’s wine output, Massimo Tosoni and his daughter, Martina Tosoni, 42, have joined the ranks of numerous producers adapting to the evolving climate. The once late-harvest white grapes like Trebbiano, Malvasia, Vermentino, and Vioner now ripen earlier by late August, a shift triggered by climate change-induced alterations.
Neighboring wine producers have started replacing traditional Sangiovese and Montepulciano red grape varieties with the more heat-tolerant Syrah, previously predominant in Sicily. Martina underscores that water scarcity, more than heat, poses the most imminent threat to vineyards, emphasizing the importance of efficient water management practices.
Embracing technological advancements, Martina and her contemporaries have implemented irrigation rotations and upgraded systems to reduce water wastage, with younger growers leveraging tech-savvy solutions to access government support for irrigation and climate-related challenges.
Maintaining a balance between tradition and innovation, the grafting of local grapes onto wild vines has proven to be remarkably resilient, as older techniques harmonize with modern practices in vineyard management.
Collaboration and community cohesion emerge as pivotal factors in navigating the changing landscape, with Martina advocating for collective planning among local producers to enhance marketing strategies and vititourism, crucial for diversification in challenging circumstances.
As wine producers worldwide grapple with the implications of climate change, Kimberly Nicholas, a sustainability scientist, highlights the urgent need for adaptation across the industry. Accelerated ripening of grapes, altered flavor profiles, and shifts in wine characteristics underscore the pressing need for innovative solutions and strategic vineyard management practices.
Innovative approaches such as shading vineyards with cloths, optimizing trellising techniques, and exploring alternative grape varieties capable of thriving in warmer climates are gaining traction as growers seek sustainable solutions amidst changing environmental conditions.
Lamberto Frescobaldi, a scion of a 700-year-old winemaking lineage in Tuscany, views the evolving scenario as an opportunity for strategic adaptation. Emphasizing the significance of water conservation, he advocates for the development of water reservoirs and the selection of rootstocks that delve deeper into the soil for moisture sustainability.
Amidst these transformations, the essence of Italy’s wine heritage and regional identities faces an inevitable evolution, challenging the traditional framework of wine production regulations. Kimberly Nicholas acknowledges the poignant loss of traditional flavors and styles, underscoring the profound impact of climate change on the viticultural landscape.
In conclusion, as the wine industry grapples with the far-reaching repercussions of climate change, a collective shift towards sustainable practices, technological innovation, and strategic adaptation emerges as the cornerstone for the future resilience of vineyards globally.
